This retreat by the sea lets you slow down, enjoy beach picnics and get acquainted with Mamallapuram

Turn off that alarm. You do not need it. At Isai Karai, you are woken by chatty birds, a bright stream of sunlight, and the excitement about what is going to be served for breakfast.

The new property by CGH Earth Saha, about 10 kilometres from central Mamallapuram, is tucked away in the midst of greenery, and is just about 150 metres from the beach. The sounds of the sea, and the breeze that rustles leaves, makes your body let loose, shoulders relax, jaws unclench, and calms the mind.

“As travel preferences evolved, we noticed a growing inclination towards smaller, more intimate holiday spaces that offer greater privacy yet personalised service, and thoughtfully curated experiences. In response to this shift — and guided by the ethos of CGH Earth — Saha was conceived,” explains George Joseph, vice president, Operations, CGH Earth. These include hand-picked cosy escapes like heritage villas steeped in history, and serene bungalow retreats that exude an artistic charm, he adds.

Spread across half an acre, Isai Karai is a collaboration between the owner Mahitha Ravilla and CGH Earth that oversees and curates the hospitality experience. The 50-year-old property comprises Vasunthara villa with three rooms and a dining and living area, with the two Kurumba cottages adjacent to it offering a little more privacy.

A lady draws a kolam at the entrance
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Special Arrangement

I am given the room on the first floor of the villa. Each room is designed differently. Some have open-to-sky showers. A wrap-around terrace runs along my spacious room. Inside, are two diwans by the windows on either side, and a four poster bed so high that there is a high rectangular footstool to climb up. The interiors at Isai Karai are an ode to Mamallapuram’s art and cultural heritage. The rooms are awash with vibrant paintings and stone sculptures that reflect this town’s centuries-old stone carving tradition. Antique furniture dots the rooms. The cushion covers have images of crabs and lobsters. “The house has retained most of its original charm just as Ms Mahitha intended it, with only a few thoughtful updates to enhance comfort and functionality. Every décor piece, painting, and artefact has been personally chosen by her over the years, making the home a deeply personal reflection of her aesthetic sensibilities and warm personality,” says George.

Garden fresh

As I make my way through the bright living room to the kitchen, Kavitha Vignesh, the very efficient and cheerful manager of the villa, greets me with her trademark warm smile, a platter of cheese and dried fruits and a plateful of cut watermelon, bananas, and papaya. “The papaya is from our garden,” she beams as she takes us on a quick tour while breakfast is prepared. There are mango, papaya, mulberry, star fruit, Chinese orange, gooseberry, chikoo and guava trees, and a garden bed with brinjal, chilli, and coriander.

Barbecue by the pool
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Special Arrangement

Here, there is no menu to order from. The meals are cooked fresh with local produce; simple flavours that are resolutely South Indian, primarily influenced by cuisine from Tamil Nadu. The kitchen staff have it all planned out but they also adapt to your requirements and effortlessly rework the menu. “Sometimes our guests want soup and Continental fare too,” says Kavita as we tuck into scrambled eggs, bread, and crisp dosas for breakfast.

In the mornings, one can hear a purposeful telephonic conversation between the kitchen staff and fishermen. They busily discuss the fresh catch of the day and what the guests would like to have. “Today we have vanjaram, squid, and red snapper,” says Kavitha as she brings us glasses of chilled panakkam (a traditional cooling drink made with dry ginger powder, pepper, ginger, cardamom, jaggery, and a dash of lemon juice).

The property is great for lazing, soaking in Nature, reading, and enjoying me time but what it also aims to do is acquaint clients with Mamallapuram and activities like surfing that have become popular along the ECR.

Hats on, let’s explore

Our first stop is, what our local guide Dileep calls, the scultpure hub of Mamallapuram. The sounds of chisels and electric drills fill the air and fine granite powder floats around us. “There are more than 200 carving units here. Other than stone, the artisans also work with wood and metal,” he explains. These artisans go abroad to make sculptures, often commissioned by the Indian communities there. Nowadays, the work is completed 50% by hand and the rest using machinery, says Dileep as we observe a sculptor carving abs on a small statue of lord Hanuman. This is like a trailer to the magnum opus that we witness next.

A sculptor at work in Mamallapuram
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Special Arrangement

Today is about a splash of history, a slice of nostalgia under the hot Chennai sun. After living in this city for 35 years, it is time for me to revisit the Shore Temple and all the architectural marvels of the region. I was five when I first saw some of these monolithic wonders in stone. Those were the days of film cameras, when my father made me pose against Arjuna’s Penance, Pancha Rathas, and the Shore Temple. Each shot well mulled over to do justice to the 36 pictures the 35mm roll permitted. This time around, things are different: I am armed with a camera phone and take multiple shots of the same structures, with the luxury of shortlisting the best ones later. But the fascination for shooting the sun behind the Shore Temple still remains, as does the desire to do the mandatory ‘push pose’ against Krishna’s Butter Ball. I remember similar pictures from an old album at home. The Butter Ball still baffles me. “In 1934, the British considered it a safety hazard and tried to move it with seven elephants but the stone didn’t budge,” explains Dileep animatedly.

These relics abound in mystery and awe. Created by the Pallava dynasty, it is fascinating to note how some of these intricate temples and carvings were made almost 1,400 years ago without modern machinery and technology. Among the more recent highlights to check out are the India Seashell Museum, started in 2013 by Raja Mohamed who travelled across 50-plus countries to collect and showcase 40,000-plus shells, and the other is the lighthouse that was built in the early 1900s. Made of natural stone, the 26-metre tall tower looks like it wears a red Paddington Bear hat that grandly sits atop the glass lantern room. Nearby is the Olakkannesvara temple that was built in the 7th Century and is believed to be the first lighthouse of India. It is said that fires were lit here to guide ships sailing along the Coromandel Coast.

Arjuna’s Penance
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Special Arrangement

Just like grandmom’s house

As I head back, Kavitha calls. “Where are you ma’am? Your evening snack is ready,” she says. A surprise awaits in the form of a picnic by the beach. Cosy chairs are set up against a table laden with fresh watermelon juice, bajji, and a tiered dessert stand with orange cake (made from oranges in the garden), fruits and cookies. It really feels like being in your grandmother’s house over the summer holidays.

The living room in Isai Karai
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Special Arrangement

In the evening, post a swim in the pool, I am treated to a barbecue dinner by the poolside. Little white flowers fall from the tree above creating a carpet all around me. The whiff from the grill piques my appetite. Fresh catch of the day — trevally, juicy prawns, squid — and chicken along with grilled pineapple, veggies and herbed rice hit the spot. Dessert is banana flambe and ice cream which I tuck into at the porch, lazing on a plantation chair, enjoying slow living and the sounds of silence.

CGH Earth Saha Isai Karai is located at 67/28 B East Coast Road, Krishnan Karanai Village, Nemmeli Panchayat, Thiruporur, Nemmeli. Tariff starts at ₹10,000.